The beaches
Salcombe sits on the Kingsbridge Estuary, and its beaches are sheltered golden coves rather than open-sea surf — North Sands, South Sands, Mill Bay and Sunny Cove on the town side, and East Portlemouth across the water. The water is calm and clear, ideal for paddling, swimming and kayaking.
The defining quirk is how completely the tide reshapes them — and how you reach them. North Sands has the car park, but South Sands is best reached by the passenger ferry and its sea tractor, a tall, long-legged contraption that drives out into the shallows to meet the boat whatever the water's doing.
Planning your day
Families want North Sands — car park beside it, shallow sheltered water, and rock pools below Fort Charles when the tide drops. Just check the tide: at high water there is very little beach, and it is the falling tide that hands you the sand.
Getting across is half the fun. The South Sands Ferry runs from the town pontoon and finishes on the sea tractor; the East Portlemouth ferry takes you over to Mill Bay and the path to Sunny Cove. Both run to the tide, so check the times.
On the water, the sheltered estuary suits swimming, kayaking and SUP rather than surf — there is sea kayak and SUP hire at South Sands, with courses. Calm, clear water and not a rip current in sight.
Dog walkers find North Sands, Mill Bay and Sunny Cove welcome dogs all year. South Sands bans them through the summer (1 May to the end of September), with the one exception of dogs on a lead crossing to reach the ferry.
Good to know
North Sands has the only beach car park (all-day around £10); the others are reached on foot or by ferry. There's a park-and-ride from Bonfire Hill in peak season, and town car parks at Whitestrand, Shadycombe and The Creek.
The Winking Prawn at North Sands and Bo's at South Sands are the beach cafés; the town, a short walk, has plenty more, plus Salcombe Dairy ice cream.
Several cottage and tourism sites still call South Sands 'Blue Flag' — that's out of date; no Salcombe beach currently holds one. It doesn't make the sand any less lovely.